Sewing-machine.



F; N. LA GHAPELLE. SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 6, 1911.

LOSLSQQ, Patented Dec. 16, 1913.

COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH CD.,WASH!NGTON, n c.

UNETEE STATES PATENT FRED N. LA CHAPELLE, OF BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-T/IACI-IINE.

Application filed December 8, 1911.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, F RED N. LA CHAPELLE', a citizen of the United States, residing at Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Vlachines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and more particularly to lock stitch wax thread shoe sewing machines which employ a hook needle.

In most of the commercial machines of the type above referred to, the take-up acts to draw back the thread from the loop drawn out by the needle for the passage of the shuttle therethrough, and then acts to set the stitch by putting the length of thread between the work and the thread lock under a stitch setting tension. The length of the loop drawn out by the take-up, together with the length of the thread passing over other devices, such as the auxiliary take-up, is so long that the takeup in setting the stitch acts on acomparatively long length of thread extending from the work to the thread lock against which the take-up sets the stitch. In the Goodyear rapid outsole stitcher, which is the most common machine of this type, the length of thread between the work and the thread lock when the takeup acts to set the stitch is about sixteen inches. When the take up sets the stitch, the comparatively long thread between the work and the thread lock stretches to an appreiable amount so that it acts like an elastic thread and will draw down the lock until the resistance of the work to the pulling in of the stitch is greater than the elastic tension of the thread. The reason for this is that the amount. of stretch of the comparatively long length of thread between the work and thread lock is greater than the distance that the lock is to be pulled in from the shuttle thread surface of the Work. The result is that in sewing hard places in the stock or stock which is not sufliciently tempered, the lock is not drawn into the work, and in sewing soft stock, the lock is pulled too deeply into the work, which causes a seam of irregular appearance if the particular piece of stock be harder in some places than in others.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 16, 1913.

Serial No. 684,153.

Moreover, if the amount of the stitch setting pull of the take-up is adjusted for stock of a certain hardness, then if softer stock be used, the lock will be drawn too far into the work. The result is that on soles which are softer than the average run of the stock, the lock is pulled in so far from the thread surface of the outsole that it lies at the oint between the outsole and the welt, particularly along the shank portion, where, because of the shearing strain, the threads in the lock are caused to saw over each other and in time break the stitch.

An object of the present invention is to provide means whereby the stitch is set with but a comparatively short length of thread between the stitch setting device and the work so that the amount of stretch in the thread is so small that the lock is pulled into the work with practically a positive pull, and in consequence, the locks of the various stitches are drawn into the work a uniform distance from its shuttle thread surface.

llith the the above object in view, a feature of the present invention contemplates a wax thread lock stitch shoe sewing machine having a take-up which acts to draw back the thread from the loop drawn out by the needle, but which does not act to draw in the lock to set the stitch, and having a stitch setting device comprising a thread clamp arranged to grip the thread between the take-up and the work and a member engaging the thread between the thread clamp and the work to set the stitch.

In addition to the feature of invention above referred to, the present invention also consists of certain devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art from the following description.

The preferred embodiment of the present invention is illustrated in the drawing, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation of the head of a lock stitch wax thread sewing machine; and Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the thread engaging member or finger which cooperates with the thread clamp to set the stitch.

In the drawing, the invention is illustrated as applied to the type of machine commercially known as the Goodyear rapid outsole stitcher, which is described with sub stantial accuracy in the patent to French & Meyer, 473,870, April 26, 1892, to which patent reference may be had for the complete disclosure of the construction and mode of operation of those parts of the machine not illustrated in the accompanying drawing or hereinafter specifically described. As shown in the drawing, the stitch a setting device of the present inven tion is applied directly to the Goodyear rapid outsole stitcher. Aside from the addition of the thread clamp and finger of the stitch setting device, the only substantial change inthe machine from that illustrated in the French '& Meyer patent is the omission of the eye piece i and the thread clamp lever 72- of the French & Meyer patexit. The eye piece 22 is omitted to allow more space for the stitch setting device and the thread clamping lever h is omitted because the pull-off acts against the thread clamp of the stitch setting device in pullingofi thread from the supply.

Referring to the drawing, 1 indicates the curved hook needle, 2 the awl, S the work support, 4 the presser foot, 5 the shuttle, 6 the looper, 7 the thread arm, spreader or lifter, 9 the take-11E, 10 the auxiliary take-up, 11 the pull o and 12 the tension. These parts, with the exception thatthe take-up 9 does not act to set the stitch, are constructed and arranged to operate substantially in the same manner as in the machine of the patent above re-' ferred to. I g

The stitch setting device of the present invention comprises a stationary thread clamp and a movable thread engaging finger or hook which cotiperate in setting the stitch. The stationary thread clamp, which is indicated generally by reference numeral 20, consists of a fixed plate or aw 22 mounted on a bracket 24 on the front of the machine and a movable plate or aw 26 carried on the upper end of a lever 28 pivoted at 30 to the bracket 24. The lever 28 is oscillated to cause the plate 26 to grip and release the thread in timed relation to the other parts of the machine by means of the link 32, the lever 34 pivoted at 36 to the machine frame, the link 38 and the lever 40 pivoted to the machine frame at 42 and bearing on its upper end a cam roller 44 which runs in a campath on therear side of the take-up cam, as v1ewed in Fig. 1. The forward end of the link 38 is screw-threaded and is loosely received through a block 46 which by means of a stud 48 is pivotally mounted on the upper end of the lever 34. The nuts 50, screw-threaded on the link 38, engage opposite ends of the block 46 and afford provision for adjusting the tightness with which the thread clamp 20 grips the thread. The thread engaging finger or hook, which cooperates with the stationary S the loop they are near enough to the work thread clamp irrsetting the stitch and which 18 indicated by reference numeral 60, has its free end bifurcated, as'sjhown' in Fig. 2, to form two prongs 62 .between which the thread is engaged. The thread finger 60 is formed on the forward end of a bell crank lever 64 which is journaled at 66 on the same stud as the auxiliary take-up 10. The bell crank lever 34 is oscillated a link 68 connected to the lower end of a cam actuated lever 70. The lever 70 bears at its upper end a cam which runs in -acam groove formed on the side of one of the' cam wheels of the machine- The link 68 is connected to the lower end of the lever 70 by by means of means of a stud which is adjustably clamped in a curved slot 72 whereby provision is af forded for varying the the thread finger 60, so that the amount of pull which the stitch setting device exerts on the thread may be varied. The thread clamping plates 22 and 26 afford a considerable clamping area for the thread and as neither of the plates is movable in a direction in which the thread pulls, a much firmer grip on the thread is afforded than by a thread roll and a clamping shoe in engagement therewith. The thread finger 60 in moving downwardly in front of the plate 22 carries a sharply bent bight of thread backwardly along the lead of the thread. The sharp bending of the thread over the rounded upper edge of the plate 22 still further serves to increase the security with which the thread is held against the pul lof the thread finger 60. The thread clamp 20 thus acts to positively grip the thread so that a considerable tension may be put upon it in setting the stitch. The thread finger 6O pulls downward on the thread in the direction of the lead of the thread away from the work so that the pull on the thread is transmitted in a direct line to the work. Although the clamp 20 and thread hook 60 are placed far enough below the work so that they do not interfere with the action of the thread arm 7 and looper 6, nevertheless so that the length of thread between the thread clamp 20 and the work is so short that the pull of the thread finger 60 against the thread exerts practically a positive pull on, the thread at the work to set the stitch.

The operation of the machine in setting the stitch is as follows: After the shuttle has passed through the loop of thread drawn out by the needle, the take-up acts to pull in this loop so that the needle thread pulls the shuttle thread down to the surface of the work, but the take-up does not act to set the stitch. After the loop drawn out by the needle has been pulled in, the take-up 9 dwells and the thread clamp 20 is actuated to grip the thread. After the thread is firmly gripped in the thread clamp 20, the

amount of throw of-f thread finger is moved forward and downward against the thread above the thread clamp 20 and acts to set the stitch. The thread finger 60 is then retracted, the thread clamp 20 is opened and the take-up gives up thread for the loo-per 6 and the needle threading arm 7 to thread the hook of the needle. The pull-off 11 acts while the thread is gripped in the thread clamp 20 to pull ofi the thread from the supply for the next succeeding stitch. Since the pull-off 11 acts slowly and the tension 12 does not hold the thread very tightly, there is no objection to having the pull-off act against the thread clamp 20 on the length of thread extending from the thread clamp 20 over the take-up 9, over the auxiliary takeup 10 and to the tension wheel 12.

The nature and scope of the present invention having been indicated and the preferred form of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is 1. A look stitch wax thread shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a take-up, means for operating the take-up to draw back thread from the loop drawn out by the needle, a stitch setting device including a thread clamp for gripping the needle thread between the take-up and the work, and a pull-off acting against said thread clamp to pull ofi thread for the next succeeding stitch.

2. A look stitch wax thread shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a takeup means for actuating the take-up to draw back thread from the loop drawn out by the needle, and a stitch setting device comprising a thread clamp for gripping the thread between the take-up and the work and a thread engaging member for exerting a ten sion on the length of thread between the thread clamp and the work to set the stitch.

3. A lock stitch wax thread shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a take-up, means for actuating the take-up to draw back thread from the loop drawn out by the needle, and a stitch setting device comprising a stationary thread clamp for grippingthe thread between the take-up and the work and a movable thread engaging finger for exerting a tension on the length of thread between the thread clamp and the work to set the stitch.

4. A lock stitch wax thread shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices lncludmg a hook needle, a

take-up, means for actuating the take-up to draw back thread from the loop drawn out by the needle, and a stitch setting device comprising a stationary thread clamp arranged to grip the thread between the takeup and the work, a thread finger for engaging the thread between the thread clamp and the work, and means for moving the thread finger in a direction away from the work with the thread extending in an approximately direct line from the thread finger to the work so as to exert a stitch setting pull on the needle thread in an approximately direct line to the work.

5. A look stitch wax thread shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a take-up, means for actuating the take-up to draw back thread from the loop drawn out by the needle, and a stitch setting device having provision for gripping the needle thread between the looper and the take-up and for exerting a stitch setting pull on the thread.

6. A lock stitch wax thread shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a take-up, means for actuating the take up to draw back thread from the loop drawn out by the needle, and a stitch setting device comprising a thread clamp formed of two relatively movable clamping plates and a thread finger arranged to engage the thread between said clamp and the work and to carry the thread in a sharply bent bight backwardly over the edge of one of said plates.

7. A lock stitch wax thread shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a take-up, means for actuating the take-up to draw back thread from the loop drawn out by the needle, a stitch setting device having provision for gripping the needle thread between the take-up and the work and for exerting a stitch setting pull on the thread, and means for varying the amount of pull exerted upon the thread by the stitch setting device.

FRED N. LA OHAPELLE.

Witnesses:

CHEsTER E. ROGERS, LAURA M. GOODRIDGE.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G. 

